Why Outside is No Place for a Rabbit
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Why Outside is No Place for a Rabbit
The Common Myth
Why Outside is No Place for a Rabbit
Overview of Why Rabbits Should Not Live Outside
Rabbits are active, social creatures who need room to zoom around, hop, and binky. They also love a good nap all stretched out and relaxed on a soft mat. Like most animals, rabbits do not belong, nor do they enjoy living life in dark, cramped hutches outside alone.
Before you bring a rabbit home it’s important to think about the quality of life you will provide for them. If your plan is to keep your rabbit outside, in a garage, or another outside building please reconsider. Rabbits are social creatures who want to be a part of your family. So many rabbits have lived and died alone in cramped, isolated cages and hutches outside.
Keeping a rabbit outside increases their chances of being forgotten, neglected, becoming sick, or dying.
The average lifespan of a rabbit kept in an outdoor hutch is 3-6 years. The average lifespan of an indoor house rabbit is 8-14 years. Make sure you give your rabbit every chance at a good, healthy, long life.
Not only does living inside extend a rabbit’s lifespan, but rabbits also thrive indoors where they’re part of the family dynamic. Rabbits love to see and hear what’s going on in a household. Living inside also allows rabbits to have a safe, secure place to call their own.
If you want to do right by your rabbit, indoor living is where it’s at. The best thing for rabbits both mentally and physically is to live in the home where they are safe, secure, and socialized with regularly.
Why Outside is No Place for a Rabbit
- Loose dog
- Feral cat
- Neighbour’s mean cat
- A really hungry opossum (rare, but can happen).
- Less frequent but still dangerous are your flying predators of the hawk and owl variety.
Foxes are common predators across the US, easily infiltrating the best neighborhoods in search of small prey.
Racoons are probably the most common predator no matter where you live. From the rural-boondocks to the suburban and inner-city neighborhoods, these masked bandits are likely to be around.
Racoons are omnivores, meaning they will eat veggies, cat food, meat, whatever you give them a chance to eat.
What makes racoons so dangerous are that they are extremely dextrous, intelligent, and violent when they need to be.
Loose dogs are another problem that happen in both rural and suburban areas. Many are perfectly friendly to humans, but they only see rabbits as prey. A rabbit left outside is at the mercy of all types of large predators, including mans best friend.
Why Outside is No Place for a Rabbit
Read More About Fleas and Rabbits:
Fleas on Rabbits-Sacramento House Rabbit Society
Many times, the only evidence of fleas on your rabbit are these little bits of black called “flea dirt”. It’s actually defecated blood. But it is a tell-tale sign that you have a flea problem.
A close up photo of what a flea looks like. That red tint you see in the stomach is blood that they feed upon.
Read More About Ticks and Rabbits:
There are many species of tick, this is just an image of one kind. Ticks can be larger than fleas, or the same size, depending on the species of tick and the age.
Ticks are very good at finding crevices such as between the body and legs, or going down in the ear to attach and hide. So if you suspect your rabbit has a tick or two, it’s not a bad idea to take them to your rabbit-savvy veterinarian for a thorough body search.
The below is just an extra note we wanted to let people know about. The image is what certain tick bites can look like on humans. A reddened bulls-eyes type pattern. If you or a family member gets this mark, go see a doctor.
Photo Credit: Tick FAQs--this is a very informative page all about ticks.
Mites are a common problem for rabbits kept outside. Mites that can infest rabbits range from fur mites and ear mites to burrowing mites that cause mange. Luckily, most mites are usually easy to get rid of. But the easiest way to avoid mites on your rabbit is to keep them inside your home.
- Loss or thinning of hair along the shoulders and middle back of the rabbit.
- Dandruff-like flakiness.
- The fur can have the appearance of being “sprinkled” with pepper (which is you visually seeing the mites).
Burrowing Mites Symptoms & Treatment:
Photo Credit: MediRabbit’s–“Common Fur Mites or Cheyletiellosis”
The above image shows the hair loss and “dandruffy” appearance associated with fur mites.
HRRN Alumni Bounce came to us in 2018 with a severe case of ear mites. This photo was taken once treatment had begun. She’s all better now and has found her forever home!
Photo Credit: MediRabbit’s–Mange: burrowing mites. Sarcoptes scabiei or Notoedres cati
The above photo shows the beginning stages of Sarcoptic mange on a rabbit’s toe. You can see the yellow crustiness, and even the open wound bleeding as they continue to itch and tear at the skin.
Photo Credit: MediRabbit’s–Mange: burrowing mites. Sarcoptes scabiei or Notoedres cati
This photo depicts a Sarcoptic mange infection in more advanced stages. It has been allowed to continue and has spread to all the feet and working it’s way up the rabbit’s legs.
Read More About Fur, Ear, and Burrowing Mites in Rabbits:
Mange: burrowing mites: Sarcoptes scabiei or Notoedres cati-MediRabbit
Flystrike (aka Myiasis)
Flystrike occurs when certain types of flies lay their eggs on a rabbit. Those eggs then hatch into maggots in the rabbit’s skin. This is a horrible disease, as these maggots feed on the rabbit’s flesh. If not treated, this is condition is often fatal, due to infection or toxic shock.
Flystrike in rabbits is most common during warm weather–when flies are thriving. Flystrike is caused by several different fly species. Rabbits suffer in particular from the Blowflies (Lucilia sericata & Calliphora sp.), the Grey Flesh fly (Wohlfahrtia sp.), the common Screwworm fly (Callitroga sp.), the Botfly (Cuterebra sp), and the House Fly ( Musca domestica).
The scent of urine, feces, and blood attract flies. Therefore, they’re most likely to lay their eggs on injured animals, or those that are dirty and damp. In the world of pets, the common myth that rabbits belong outside in a hutch leaves them at the most risk for this terrible condition.
Flies can lay up to 200 eggs on the skin. You can usually find the majority at the rear end of an animal. These eggs then hatch into maggots within hours. The maggots grow by feeding on the rabbit’s flesh. Working together, these maggots can eat through a large area of skin frighteningly fast. The rabbit’s bottom, tail, belly, and back are usually worst affected. Rabbits who get flystrike can lose large parts of their flesh to these maggots within hours. The severe shock associated with this is often what kills them.
As you can see, due to the rapid development of flystrike, cases can become very serious in a very short space of time.
This is just another reason that rabbits should not live outside. Rabbits stuck outside in hutches for hours at a time alone can easily become affected and die before anyone notices.
Photo Credit: Photo Credit: House Rabbit Society–Fly-strike Emergency. This photo is of a Blow fly infestation before treatment and after cleaning of the infected area.
Photo Credit: MediRabbit-Myiasis (fly-strike) in Rabbits. Photo of a Green Bottle Fly, also known as a Blow Fly.
The best prevention is to keep your rabbit inside away from the radar of most flies. Living inside also allows you to ensure your rabbit and their pen stays clean, which will keep flies away.
It must said that this condition also happens with rabbits who live inside because flies can get in too. However, it’s a lot easier to catch if you’re right there with your rabbit and not visiting to a hutch once or twice a day.
You want to try to rid the area of things that attract flies.
Keep everything dry! If the litterbox is full of urine and feces, dump it far away from the house and your rabbit. If your rabbit has poopy-butt syndrome, do not dip their rear end in a bath to clean it. This can take too long to dry can cause the perfect environment in the wet fur. Besides, a rabbit with poopy-butt has something else going on and should see a rabbit-savvy vet. If you can’t get to the vet asap, in the meantime you can “spot clean”. Spot cleaning will still help loosen and remove feces stuck to the hindquarters.
If you have a long-haired breed such as an Angora or Lionhead, talk to your rabbit-savvy vet to learn how to keep certain areas shaved. This will help allow those areas such as their bottoms that see a lot of moisture to stay dry. It will also allow you to see the area better and keep an eye out for maggots.
What To Do If You Suspect Flystrike
Flystrike in rabbits is life-threatening. You need to contact your vet straight away if you suspect your rabbit has flystrike or if you find a maggot on your rabbit or in their cage. If it’s out of hours, call your nearest 24/7 Emergency Animal Hospital. Do not wait until your daytime rabbit-savvy vet reopens as it may be too late.
Flystrike Warning Signs:
Seizures: Some rabbits have “itchy skin” seizures. Caused by nerve sensors on the surface of the body triggering an overall nerve reaction. Rabbits are sensitive to surface irritations, and maggots eating your flesh can cause the body to react this way. These “itchy-skin” seizures can be an early warning sign. If your rabbit has a seizure but you can’t find anything on their hind end or stomach, check near their scent glands. Not all rabbits respond this way, but it’s good to know some do.
Lethargy or inactivity: This is never a good sign in a rabbit. It usually means something is wrong. In the case of flystrike, the rabbit may already be in shock.
Photo Credit: MediRabbit-Myiasis (fly-strike) in Rabbits. Photo of a rescued rabbit with bite wound heavily infected by fly maggots. Despite good medical care and signs of recovery, the rabbit died.
More Flystrike Resources and Information:
Racoon Roundworm Symptoms and Treatment:
Symptoms can vary according to what area of the brain is affected. But head tilt (torticollis) is one of the most common symptoms. Due to this being an infection of the brain there may be motor (movement) problems with other body parts.
Photo Credit: Head Tilt (Torticollis) in Rabbits: Don’t Give Up-Dr. Dana Krempels H.A.R.E
While Head Tilt (torticollis) is cause by several different things, it is one of the main symptoms of a racoon roundworm infection in the brain.
More Racoon Roundworm Resources:
Why Outside is No Place for a Rabbit
Rabbits living outdoors are exposed to a wide variety of diseases. Some of the most wide-spread dangers are listed below. But each state and country have their own unique set of disease threats. So it’s a good idea to research rabbits diseases in your local area. The one common thread in all of these diseases is that the best way to prevent your rabbit from getting them is to keep them inside the home. Rabbits should not live outside because of the very real threat of these diseases.
Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV & RHDV2)
How RHDV & RHDV2 are spread:
- Direct contact: A rabbit comes into contact with an infected rabbit or the urine or feces of an infected rabbit.
- Indirect contact
- Human contact: While people can’t contract this virus, they can spread it to their rabbits. A person coming into contact with an infected rabbit or contaminated objects can bring the virus home to their rabbit. Because this disease is so swift to kill, if someone comes in contact with an infected rabbit, they most likely weren’t showing any symptoms, yet.
- Inanimate objects: A rabbit can catch this virus by coming into contact with contaminated objects. These are known as fomites and include clothing, shoes, and automobile tires. A person walking across unseen feces or urine from an infected wild rabbit will accidentally bring the virus home on their shoes.
- Rabbit products: Contact with fur, meat, or wool from infected rabbits. Since this virus does not affect humans, rabbit product manufacturers are less keen on keeping things sterile from this virus.
- Mechanical Vectors and Predators: Insects (flies, fleas, and mosquitoes), birds, rodents, large predators, and other pets (cats and dogs) can spread the virus by acting as “indirect hosts” or “mechanical vectors”. While other animals are not harmed by RHDV2, they can transport it from an infected rabbit to a healthy rabbit. In Australia, flies who’d been in contact with infected rabbits are thought to have been the primary cause of long-distance viral transmission. RHDV can be excreted in the feces of predators who have consumed sick rabbits.
- Food/Water: Ingesting virus-contaminated water or food.
RHDV & RHDV2 Incubation,Symptoms, and Death Rate:
- RHDV1 1-3 days. Rabbits may die within 12-36 hours to a few weeks, after the onset of symptoms.
- RHDV2 3-5 days
If a rabbit does show symptoms of RHDV or RHDV2, they include:
- Loss of appetite
- Lethargy (low energy, not very responsive)
- High fever
- Jaundice (yellowing of the eyes and skin)
- Bleeding from nose, mouth, or rectum
- Difficulty breathing
- Sudden death
- RHDV 40-100%
- RHDV2 5-80%+
- Survivors: Rabbits who survive RHDV are carriers and shed the virus for at least 42 days.
- Asymptomatic Carriers: Some rabbits may show no signs of having the virus, but may shed virus for up to 2 months.
Photo Credit: Invasive Species Compendium-rabbit haemorrhagic disease- CABI
One symptom of RHDV and RHDV2 is bleeding from the nose, mouth, or rectum. A rabbit showing these symptoms must be quarantined immediately and you need to call your rabbit-savvy veterinarian immediately.
RHDV & RHDV2 Treatment and Prevention:
- There is no known cure for RHDV
- There is a vaccine that can help protect your rabbit from catching this virus. Several states with the virus have the vaccines in. Learn more about the vaccine and it’s availability in each state here.
- But even with a vaccine available, it must be given before your rabbit comes into contact with the virus. The vaccine will not work once your rabbit has already been infected
- RHDV treatment is supportive symptom care in isolation
- There are currently no known effective anti-viral drugs or other treatments available
More RHDV Resources:
Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease PDF-The Center of Food Security and Public Health
Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV)-House Rabbit Society
Diagnosis and prevention of RHVD2 infection-VetRecord
Molecular epidemiology of Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV) in Australia: when one became many-US Library of Medicine & National Institutes of Health
Invasive Species Compendium-rabbit haemorrhagic disease- CABI
Myxomatosis is a virus that has a 99% mortality (death) rate in domestic rabbits. There is no treatment.
Wild rabbits can be infected with the Myxomatosis virus and show no symptoms. Making them what is known as asymptomatic carriers.
How is Myxomatosis Spread?
Myxomatosis is a vector-borne disease. One of the main modes of transmission is through a “disease-vector”. Vectors can be mosquitoes, flies, fleas, or fur mites. These vectors bite an infected rabbit, and then hop or fly over to a healthy rabbit, biting them and spreading the virus.
This virus is also spread through modes know as direct and indirect contact.
- Direct contact happens when an infected rabbit comes into contact with a domestic rabbit, spreading the virus through the air.
- Indirect contact happens through a person handling a sick rabbit, then handling a healthy rabbit. Surfaces and objects can also maintain the virus for a time, assisting in its spread.
Photo Credit: Myxomatosis in the US–House Rabbit Society
This photo shows one of the most common symptoms of myxomatosis–swollen eyelids.
- swollen eyelids, lips, and genitals
- high fever
Myxomatosis Treatment and Prevention:
Unfortunately, there is no cure, and supportive symptom care is generally unsuccessful.
To prevent myxomatosis, your best options are to do the following:
- Control its vectors – add screening to keep out insects; use flea control; keep your rabbits indoors.
- Disinfect surfaces regularly – 10% bleach, 10% NaOH, 1% to 1.4% formalin
- Quarantine new rabbits and do not house wild rabbits with domestic pet rabbits.
- Vaccinate your rabbits if it is available in your country. It can provide temporary protection. Unfortunately, the vaccination is not available in Australia or the United States.
More Myxomatosis Resources and Information:
Why Outside is No Place for a Rabbit
Overheating in Rabbits
Symptoms of Overheating in Rabbits:
If a rabbit starts overheating and nothing is done about it, they can quickly die of heat-stroke.
Signs of a rabbit overheating are:
- Fast, shallow breathing
- Hot ears
- Listlessness or Lethargy
- Wetness around the nose area
- Tossing their head back while breathing rapidly from an open mouth.
If you see any of these signs, you need to cool the rabbit down ASAP. Get them in the shade, or better, air-conditioning. Dampen the ears with cool (not cold) water as this will help to bring down his/her body temperature. Rabbit’s ears are his/her personal air conditioner. Give the rabbit access to fresh, cold water with a few ice cubes in it, and call your rabbit-savvy vet for further instructions. Do not try and cool the rabbit down by giving it a cold bath or submerging them in any water. This will just put them into shock and likely kill them.
Preventing Heatstroke in Rabbits:
Just like in humans, heatstroke in rabbits is a very serious condition. But it is 100% preventable!
The #1 way to prevent heatstroke in rabbits is to keep indoors. Rabbits who live indoors rarely have issues with overheating because homes are temperature-controlled. We recommend keeping your AC at 78 degrees Fahrenheit or lower during the hot summer months. But even at 78 F, some rabbits have a tendency to overheat. For those sensitive rabbits, there are some other things you can do along with AC to keep them cool.
Things to Help Keep Your Indoor Bunnies Cooler:
- Frozen Water Bottles: Place frozen water bottles in the rabbit’s cage where they can lay next to them. These bottles not only help keep the rabbit’s body temperatures down, but they can also lick the cool condensation.
- Ice Cubes in Water Source: Placing ice cubes in their water bottles also helps keep things cool.
- Stand-up Fans: Can help keep your rabbit cooler during warm temperatures.
- Provide Cool Surfaces: Get several tiles (stone or ceramic) and place them in your bunny’s area. They stay naturally cool, but you can also put them in the fridge or freezer to chill them more. Do not use wet blankets and towels as this wets your bunny and leaves them vulnerable to flystrike.
- Create Frozen Treats: Make 100% fruit juice popsicles in an ice tray, or water with fruit inside. Even though these are likely to be a huge hit, fruit popsicles contain a lot of sugar and should be given sparingly.
- Extra Grooming Sessions: Helping your rabbit to rid themselves of excess fur will help cool them down.
With Hot Weather Remember to:
- Have Extra Water Available: In the summertime always make sure extra water is available for your rabbit. Even if they live inside, they’re likely to drink more water during the hot months.
- Keep Water Sources Clean: With warmth comes bacterial growth. Be sure to clean all water bottles/crocks thoroughly and regularly to prevent bacteria from growing.
Outside is No Place for a Rabbit, Especially in the Summer Months:
While you already know House Rabbit Resource believes rabbits should not live outside, we also strongly urge caretakers to not take rabbits outside for playtime or walks when temperatures are over 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Besides the risk of overheating, warm weather also brings a higher risk of your rabbit getting fleas or flystrike.
Never use wet towels outside to try and keep your rabbit cool. This will attract flies and increase flystrike chances.
More Hot Weather and Rabbits Information:
Overheating / Heat Exhaustion-SpecialBunny.org
Keep Your Rabbit Cool In Summer-House Rabbit Society
Photo Credit: Celine who sent the photo to BinkyBunny.com.
Photo is of a Terracotta Lid with Ice bag underneath:
“Get lids big enough for bunnies to lay most of their body on. I lay a smaller flat dish on the ground and fill a bag with ice and put it in the dish and flip the plant lid over on top of it to make an “ice bed”. My bunnies love to lay on these to help dissipate the heat. On days that are cooler to me and under 75, I know that they are getting hot when they get up on these beds when there is no ice in them signalling to me that they need cooling off and I go fill them up.”
Keep Your Bunny Cool In Summer Time Quick Tips:
- Do not let rabbits remain in temperatures 78° F (25.5° C) or higher
- Keep them cool inside with AC set to 78°F (25.5° C) or lower
- Use stand-up oscillating fans
- Keep rabbit out of direct sunlight
- Place frozen water bottles near rabbit
- Mist ears with cool water (do not drench)
- Offer chilled ceramic tiles to lay on
- Add ice to water sources
Overheating and Heatstroke are EMERGENCIES.
Know the Symptoms. Know How to Prevent.
Cold Weather and Rabbits
Rabbits are cold-weather animals. While they can’t handle the heat well at all, their bodies handle cold weather much better. Rabbits tolerate temperatures down to freezing 32°F (0°C).
You can rest easy knowing that your rabbit is fine in your home in the winter. More than likely your rabbit will handle any chill better than others in the house–human or animal.
Keep the heat on to your comfort level (unless that’s over 78 °F) and your rabbit will also be comfortable.
Because HRRN does not support rabbits living outdoors at any time of the year, there is not much else to discuss on the colder temperature subject. We do want to note that rabbits while rabbits handle cold well, they can still get hypothermia (when body temperature drops below 101°F (below 100°F is serious!). A rabbit in a hutch outside in winter will begin to suffer at around 30°F (-2°C).
Barometric Pressure Changes and Rabbits
Alright, so this next section is entirely based on experience, but we felt it necessary to mention as many people don’t know about it.
Barometric pressure (also known as atmospheric pressure) is the force exerted by the atmosphere at a given point. It is known as the “weight of the air”. Fluctuations in barometric pressure are usually a sign of weather conditions. So when that cold-front comes through after it’s been super hot out, it causes a sudden change in barometric pressure.
Due to a home being temperature-controlled, a rabbit living inside is less likely to be affected by barometric pressure changes. But that’s not 100% and sensitive rabbits can still have issues. It’s a good idea to keep an eye for differences in your rabbit during extreme weather changes. At HRRN, we’ve found some rabbits are sensitive to these changes, and it can actually cause gut stasis.
While we couldn’t find any articles to support this theory in rabbits, barometric changes have been linked to colic in horses. Horses and rabbits are similarly designed animals with colic in horses being the equivalent to gut stasis in rabbits. And like we stated earlier, we’ve seen this theory to be true. Certain rabbits at our shelter will have gut stasis issues in line with a big change in the weather that day.
“When barometric pressure drops, some horses that are a little more prone to colic, you can almost guarantee that they’ll colic,” Slovis said. (Colic And Weather Changes: What You Can Do To Protect Your Horse. Horse Racing News: Paulick Report.)
Photo Credit: RedBarnRabbitRescue.org
Gut Stasis can be deadly. Know the signs so that you can begin treatment at the earliest signs of gut stasis. Learn more on our Gut Stasis page.
Why Rabbits Should Not Live Outsides
Compare and Contrast
A Rabbit Living Inside is:
- Safe from predators, both large and small.
- Protected from parasites and disease.
- Protected from life-threatening weather extremes.
- Closely watched and therefore health problems are more likely to be caught early. This ability benefit can be the difference between life and death.
- Much more likely to form a strong connection to their caretakers and other pets in the home.
- Not at risk for theft or harassment from strangers.
- More likely to live a long, happy life. The average lifespan of an indoor house rabbit is 8-14 years. The average lifespan of a rabbit kept in an outdoor hutch is 3-6 years.
- More healthy both mentally and physically as they are part of the social dynamic of the family.
A Rabbit Living Outside is:
- At the mercy of large predators waltzing into their area. Remember, even if an animal can’t get into a cage to kill the rabbit, it can still cause the rabbit to injure itself or die of fright.
- The risk of contracting a disease or parasite is extremely likely.
- Exposed to all weather extremes. Rabbits do not tolerate weather about 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Often forgotten and/or neglected.
- Not given the daily opportunity to run and play.
- Not given the social interaction they crave and need.
- Likely to become bored, depressed, and stressed. Living outside in a hutch or cage is like living in solitary confinement.
- Less likely to form a strong bond with their human caretakers due to lack of regular interaction.
- More likely to die young. The average lifespan of a rabbit kept in an outdoor hutch is 3-6 years. The average lifespan of an indoor house rabbit is 8-14 years.
Why Rabbits Should Not Live Outsides
Frequently Asked Questions
Like we stated in the intro of this page, the topic of rabbits not living outside is a heated one. Whenever HRRN or other house rabbit rescue groups bring up the reasons why house rabbits should not live outside, we get lots of questions and counter-arguments.
We understand many people feel very strongly about keeping their rabbits outside. They feel attacked when we try to explain why rabbits should not live outside. We understand that most people are not keeping their rabbits outside to be neglectful or inhumane. But the facts are that rabbits who live outside have drastically shorter lifespans and increased health issues.
On top of facts and statistics, rabbit-savvy veterinarians specially trained in the care and health of house rabbits recommend they live inside.
We know we’re fighting a deeply engrained belief here. It’s a hard practice to change, one that has been handed down for generations. But we believe that offering and explaining the facts is the first step to changing this pattern. Things are known now, that were not known back then. Lots of things that were once considered “good” or “normal” are now recognized as being bad and harmful. The case of rabbits living outside is no different.
Here are some of the most common questions or arguments about keeping rabbits outside and our responses.
In House Rabbit Resource Network and most other rabbit rescue groups opinion, the simple answer is no.
There are many factors that go into this answer.
- Large Predators–Large predators such as foxes, coyotes, raccoons, feral cats, and loose dogs are all happy to eat your rabbit if given the chance.
- Small Predators aka External and Internal Parasites- fleas, mites, ticks, internal parasites, and disease are a threat to your rabbit if living outside.
- Disease-RHDV2 and Myxomatosis to name just two deadly diseases your rabbit can contract much more easily living outside.
- Weather–is another big issue for domestic rabbits. Rabbits begin overheating in temperatures around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. While rabbits handle cold climates better, once it drops below freezing, they begin to have problems.
- Mental Stimulation-Rabbits are very social creatures who love being part of a family and being a part of day-to-day interactions. Rabbits who live outside are often neglected, or seen only once a day for an hour or two. This can cause the rabbit to become depressed.
So while we completely understand the draw of keeping your rabbits outside, there are just too many uncontrollable threats to be safe.
Wild rabbits are designed to live outside. There are no breeds or types of domestic (house) rabbits that are equipped physically or mentally to live outside. Centuries of domestication has changed them from their wild ancestors. Similar to the dog and wolf.
Once again, we go back to the large and small predator list.
Even if your rabbits stayed in the hutch and run you’ve designed, which does sound very nice, it doesn’t protect them from fleas, mites, or ticks. It doesn’t protect them from raccoon ringworm or RHDV2. We hope that the entire structure is very strong and well-built to handle a fox or raccoon clawing and biting at it. But even if the structure holds, will your rabbits survive such a terrifying ordeal?
It doesn’t sound like your backyard is fenced, based on “they run around outside the garden when they’re outside the pen and they always come back”. It does sound like you’re letting your rabbits out unsupervised. Granted, even with supervision if a loose dog was to come out of nowhere and attack, you wouldn’t be able to get to your rabbits in time. So sadly it’s just a matter of time before something happens to your rabbits.
Just because a rabbit doesn’t immediately die the moment they step outside doesn’t mean that everything is hunky-dory. As stated before: “The average lifespan of a rabbit kept in an outdoor hutch is 3-6 years. The average lifespan of an indoor house rabbit is 8-14 years.”-House Rabbit Society.
The above two sentences are not simply a theory or someone’s opinion. It’s been documented countless times that the various dangers lurking outside for domestic rabbits decreases their chances of surviving into old age drastically.
Of course, there will always be those rabbits who do survive. But the majority of outside rabbits have their lifespans cut almost in half. It’s not so much a matter of if your rabbit will be seriously injured or die early when living outside, but when.
The arguments over this subject have always confused us rabbit experts/rescuers. We wonder why so many people are determined to risk their rabbits’ lives just to keep them outside. We know it’s not a question of whether they love their rabbit or not, we know they do. Very much. So why risk losing your rabbit to one of these uncontrollable risks, when you can bring them inside and avoid almost all the associated threats? And if you truly can’t keep a rabbit inside due to either lack of space or other dangerous pets, do you really need a pet as fragile as a rabbit? That’s a tough question to ask, but it’s needed. Bringing home a rabbit is taking their life in your hands. The decision to get a rabbit needs to be looked at from all angles, for everyone’s sake.
We get this statement a lot from backyard breeders. The problem is, 99% of these backyard breeders know absolutely nothing about rabbits or their care. But they sure think they do.
Backyard breeders rarely, if ever, take their rabbits to the vet. If they did, they’d quickly realize that the rabbits in their care are in fact not fine.
Over the years, House Rabbit Resource Network has taken in several “packs” of these rabbits from breeders. Several were surrendered by the breeder due to life changes. Others we’ve taken in after the local sheriff had seized them due to poor conditions and neglect.
But whether they were willingly surrendered or not, we always find the same thing. With breeder rabbits, we always find multiple rabbits with mite and flea infestations. Almost all the rabbits had overgrown nails. Several rabbits had abscesses hidden under the fur, but due to never being groomed or closely looked at, they are never found. Most rabbits had internal parasites such as coccidia. Many had Pasteurella infections. And some of the saddest to find are the ones with tumors and progressed cancers. Female rabbits who are not spayed have an 80% chance of developing uterine cancer. We find that many of the female breeding rabbits over the age of 2 will already have cancer.
If you think we’re exaggerating for the sake of making a point, here is just one case we’ve recently dealt with:
On Oct. 11, 2019, HRRN took in 25 allegedly “healthy” rabbits from two sets of backyard breeders. Both sets were willingly surrendered for different reasons.
As per protocol, we immediately took all the rabbits to the vet. After discovering the plethora of problems the rabbits had, we had to make a donation plea on social media.
We never revealed the breeder’s names or said anything bad about them. There is no reason to, the owners swore they loved their rabbits and believed they were in the best health. But when we explained the many problems in our plea (shown below), one set of owners contacted us shocked and angry, feeling we’d called them out. They felt by posting the problems found, we were saying these rabbits were unloved. You’ll see below that we never said that, and that was never our angle. But facts are facts. Love is not enough to keep any animal healthy. Proper diet, housing, and medical care are required
Post from HRRN Facebook Page Oct. 11, 2019:
“This past weekend was *ahem* a busy one for all of us at the HRRN shelter because we had an intake of 25 rabbits. That’s right, 25! And that just added to the 17 we had taken in the previous week (14 were from Williamson County Animal Shelter)
This weekend’s 25 were from two different surrender cases. The first batch was of 13 rabbits (6 girls, 7 boys), and the second batch was of 12 (10 girls, 2 boys).
With all local shelters completely full, and honestly, local dog/cat shelters are barely equipped to take 2 rabbits let alone 13 and 12, it became an extremely urgent situation to help both these groups of rabbits and to get them to a place where they would be safe and given a second chance.
Currently, we are seeing from these rabbits:
One has an ear abscess (most likely been there for years) and a uterine tumor. Will most likely need some form of ear surgery down the line.
3 un-spayed females (3 years, 4.5 years, and 7 years of age) most likely have Uterine Tumors/Cancer. We wanted to take this moment for a PSA about why, besides reducing overpopulation numbers, we urge everyone to fix their female rabbits. If you do not spay your female rabbits, their chances for getting Uterine Cancer/Tumors, and them metastasizing and spreading to other organs grows exponentially. These females will be spayed ASAP and checked to see if the cancer has stayed within the uterus (hopefully) or if it has spread to other organs.
13 had medium to severe cases of ear-mites, so they’ve already begun treatment to kill the ear mites.
12 may have possible fleas since flea dirt was detected but no actual fleas. Either way, they’ve all been started on flea/ear-mite treatment as a precaution.”
We were able to save most of these rabbits, get them healthy, fixed, and adopted to loving forever homes. Yet sadly, we were unable to save the 3 females with cancer. All 3 had been allowed to progress for too long unnoticed. One was only 3 years old…
So in conclusion, when a breeder states that their large group of outdoor rabbits is “totally fine”, we look to the above situation as just one example of the many times this declaration has been completely untrue. Once again, we’re not saying that all backyard breeders are cruel, heartless people. We understand that many do in fact truly cherish their animals. But that doesn’t make not taking proper care of them okay. And just because your rabbits aren’t dying on the cage floor doesn’t mean they’re healthy and fine.
Rabbit breeders who breed rabbits for show, or to upkeep certain breeds, have taken the time to educate themselves on correct rabbit care. These breeders keep their rabbits indoors, knowing that it is in fact safer, and better for them. On a side note, they also keep their numbers much lower than 21. If they don’t keep them in their own home, they build a temperature-controlled outbuilding.